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Close-up of pink, red, yellow and blue warp threads on a wooden loom
Photo: Mick Haupt, Unsplash

How the math works: a first scarf

Here is Ashford's first scarf. It is 11 in wide on a reed of 7.5 ends per inch, with 9 in of fringe at each end. Ashford sets up 84 ends, and the first step below reaches that number. A finished length of about 55 in fits Ashford's 79 in warp, so the math uses that.

  1. Warp ends

    11 in wide × 7.5 ends per inch = 82.5, up to 83, then up to 84, the next even number

    84 ends

    The reed is the slotted piece the warp runs through, and each inch of it holds a set number of threads. A slot and a hole make a pair of ends, so the count goes up to an even number.

  2. Take-up

    10% of 55 in = 5.5 in

    5.5 in

    Threads travel over and under each other, so the cloth ends up shorter than the warp it came from. This much extra makes up for it.

  3. Loom waste and fringe

    loom waste 18 in already covers fringe of 2 × 9 in = 18 in

    18 in

    Loom waste is the warp you cannot weave, because it is tied on at both ends of the loom. It can become your fringe, so the larger of the two is used.

  4. Length of each warp thread

    55 + 5.5 + 18 = 78.5 in, up to 79 in

    79 in

    This is how long to measure every warp thread. Round up to a whole inch.

  5. Warp yarn

    84 ends × 79 in = 6,636 in ÷ 36 = 184.33 yd, up to 185 yd

    185 yd

    Every end is the same length, so multiply by the number of ends, then divide by 36 to turn inches into yards.

  6. Weft picks per inch

    same as ends per inch, 7.5

    7.5 per inch

    A pick is one trip of the weft across the cloth. One pick for every end in an inch gives an even, balanced cloth.

  7. Weft yarn

    11 in × 7.5 picks × 55 in woven = 4,537.5 in, plus 10% = 4,991.25 in; ÷ 36 = 138.65 yd, up to 139 yd

    139 yd

    Each pick crosses the full width. Multiply width, picks per inch and woven length, add the take-up, and divide by 36.

  8. Total yarn

    185 + 139 = 324 yd

    324 yd

    Warp and weft together.

So the scarf needs 84 ends, each 79 in long. That is 185 yd of warp yarn and 139 yd of weft yarn, or 324 yd in all.

These are estimates, so buy a little extra. It's better to have a bit of yarn left than to run short.

Where to go next

With your yarn chosen, how to warp a rigid heddle loom takes you through measuring and winding the warp. New to weaving? How to start weaving covers the whole first scarf.

Further reading